Let’s discover Mostar
Mostar is the 6th largest city in Bosnia with just over 100,000 inhabitants. The city is located in the south of the county and is divided in two along the river Neretva. The west side is majority Croat – Catholic and the east side is majority Bosniak – Muslim.
Indeed, Bosnia and Herzegovina is divided into three communities based on religion: the Catholic Croats, the Muslim Bosniaks and the Orthodox Serbs. Even though all three communities share a common language and cultural heritage, they are very segregated, and ethnic tensions are fuelled by the memory of both the Bosnian war and Serb separatist movements in areas where they are the majority (the easten part of the country known as Republika Srpska – Републике Српска).
Mostar is the perfect example of this divide. The two sides of the city are completely different. Standing on opposite sides of the river are the competing bell tower of the Franciscan church and monastery of St. Peter and Paul and the older minaret of the Karađoz-begova džamija (mosque). The city’s population was in fact originally Catholic but in the 15th century with the Ottoman conquest of the Balkans, a huge part of the area’s population converted to Islam. During this period, Mostar became the capital city of the Eyalet (a sort of province in the Ottoman Empire) of Herzegovina (historical region in the south of today’s Bosnia and Herzegovina). After WW1 the city fell into the Austrian sphere of influence before becoming a part of communist Yugoslavia. This rich history is the reason why Mostar is such a beautiful and interesting town to visit, offering many exceptional monuments to discover.
I have been to Mostar twice, once in 2015 and a second time last summer in August 2024 and here are my suggestions if you ever visit this city.
THE OLD BRIDGE
The Old Bridge is the post card image of Mostar and dominates the Neretva river from a height of 24 meters (78 ft 9 in). Also known as the “Ottoman Necklace”, it was built 1566 by a student of the famous architect Mimar Sinan but in 1993 it was destroyed by the Croatian forces during the Bosnian War. On July 23, 2024 the newly reconstructed bridge was officially inaugurated in a symbolic ceremony, which promoted reconciliation of the different Bosnian communities.
THE KOSKI MEHMED PASHA MOSQUE
The Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque is the most beautiful mosque in Mostar and probably one of the most intricately decorated mosques in the whole of Europe. It was founded 1618 by Mehmed Koskija, the chronicler of Sokollu Mehmed Pasha who was the Grand Vizir (head advisor) between 1565 and 1579 under three sultans: Suleiman the Magnificent, Selim II and Murad III. Beside the mosque, Mehmed Koskija’s brother Mahmud built a madrasah (islamic school) which was renowned throughout the whole Balkans and is still active today. The mosque has beautiful frescoes and carpets in opulent ottoman style. Historically the women’s area was located on a tiny elevated platform at the back of the mosque but now unlike in most mosques, women pray at the right of the minbar (the pulpit where the imam delivers sermons).
TEKIJA NA VRELU BUNE
Tekija na vrelu Bune or Tekija at the source of the Buna river, was a place where Sufi dervishes gathered for spiritual practices. Sufism is a mystical branch of Islam focused on seeking a direct personal experience with God. Sufi dervishes are monks that engage in different mystical rituals including music, danse and meditation. They often wear distinctive clothing and are organized in different orders known as tariqas. The main tariqa present in the Balkans is the Order of Bektashi dervishes. The site is referred to as the burial site of Sari Saltuk, one of the most famous Turkish dervishes, worshiped as a saint throughout the Balkans. The place is very famous because of its unusual architecture, carved into the hill at the source of the river Buna.
ĆEVAPI, TURKISH COFFEE AND BAKLAVA
Bosnian food is typical from the Balkans with strong Turkish influence. I would recommend going to Restaurant Šadrvan in the old city close to the Old Bridge. The setting is unique and magical. The restaurant is located in the middle of the old bazaar, next to souvenir shops selling handmade tea sets and lanterns. The restaurant is found in a large courtyard which takes you back in time to the royal courts of the Ottoman Empire. There, they serve delicious dishes including ćevapi with onions and somun. Ćevapi is a lamb meat sausage while somun is a Turkish-like flat bread. After the main dish, comes the desert: a baklava (a layer pastry made out of chopped nuts with honey) served with a very strong coffee known as Turkish coffee.
I hope you enjoyed this tour of Mostar’s old city and that you will visit it soon.
Julien Tonon / S7FRD / EEB1
